Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.
This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.
“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.
In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.
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